![]() The over-riding factor in selecting the right Ford small block pulleys should be which side the lower radiator hose is on and number of crank pulley boltsĭiameter: 5.4" Overall Length: 2.0" Grooves: 1 Bolt Pattern: 4 Bolt Bolt Circle: 1. It is not recommended that you select small block pulleys based on model and year alone because often the original engine has been swapped. If you have a question about application, please e-mail us. : 351W Water Pump 1-16 of 313 results for '351W Water Pump' Results Amazon's Choice Gates 43057 Premium Engine Water Pump 362 50+ bought in past month 2868 FREE delivery Mon, Aug 28 More Buying Choices 25.92 (18 used & new offers) Fits Ford Small Block 302/351W, Aluminum High Flow Mech Water Pump 12499 11. Note: 1969 model year was a transition year for small blocks and you need to check your water pump and number of bolts on crank pulley. Dampener face to water pump flange face 3 1/4"įits the following models with original 289, 302 & 351W small block engines installed.Water Pump with Driver's side lower radiator hose.Factory 4 bolt damper (Aftermarket dampers may require 0.950" spacer).Use the taller SBFL1WP for power steering applications Fits vehicles with: Shorter Pulley for Alternator Only Applications. 1969 1/2+ Ford 302 & 351W passenger carsĥ.4" Diameter for high water pump flow applications (over-drive).I have some concerns with 21* base being too advanced, but I did not notice any knocking or pinging (using 87 octane, about 9:1 on compression) and I actually had better low end power on 20 minute test drive.Ī) Does anyone think I should be concerned about being so advanced at idle?ī) If not, then perhaps Mike just needs to advance his timing significantlyBillet Aluminum Ford Small Block Water Pump Pulley V-Belt (4 Bolt Damper) 1 Groove Water Pump Pulley for: Today I let the car idle for 1 hour with my new timing (21* base, 36* total) and it never climbed over 195. With base timing set at 12*-16* my temperature would always eclipse 245 *F in under 30 minutes, and I would shut down because the temperature was still climbing. After setting my total advance to 36* RPM), my base (idle) is now sitting at 21* I decided to focus on my total advance, rather than my base timing. ![]() ![]() Where should I set the timing on my performance engine? For the entire time I have been having my overheating problems, my timing has been set at 12*-16* base (idle), but after reading this article: After running across this thread, I decided to take a closer look at my timing. I was about to order a high flow water cooler to try and solve my problems. I have a thumpr in my 351w, and I have been having problems running hot for months now. As far as I understand the water is sucked in by the impeller at the center of the waterpump, so this could be a problem - right ?! Looks like the impeller is not properly pressed all the way on the cam. The impeller (winged wheel or whatever you call it) of the original waterpump is not only slightly bigger but fits way closer to the waterpump housing (towards the front of the car) than at the new one. Today I´ve been looking at the old waterpump and I saw a substantial difference to my new one. It runs hot at 68☏ outside temperature as well as at 95☏. ![]() The only way to keep it cool is to switch to "neutral" when driving downwards or when approaching a stop/trafficlight - so the water/engine is cooled by air while not loaded. ![]() It is always running hot in about the same timeframe - no matter if I go 100mls/hour or 50mls/hour. It never sticks to any temperature, seems to go somehow up and down "in cycles", increasing a few degrees at each cycle. The engine is running hot at stop and go in the city, too, not sure if it would at idle. Did the adjustment many times before - never had a problem. I expect the intake gaskets to be in correct, as well as the thermostat (I swapped it several times and I know which way in), valves are adjusted according to engine specs - not to tight but also not to lose. I´ve setted timing to basic 6 degrees and at my first rides even my vacuum advance did not work propperly (I repaired it later) so I only had centrifugal advance - no way timing was to early - definitely ! Provides maximum flow, maximum pressure and equal distribution to both sides of the block. Features Premium quality aluminum casting, HD 3/4' ball/roller bearing, CNC machined curved vane impeller and billet steel hub. Thanks for all that feedback guys - great to have some experienced ford enthusiasts aside ! Standard rotation water pump for 1970-1978 5.0L and 1970-1987 351W engines. ![]()
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